Wednesday, August 9, 2023

Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari in Venice

Note: This is part of our visit to Venice in 2022; but I didn't have time then to catalogue its beautiful art as I immediately started my degree at Cambridge. The Venice 2022 art will in the Art Index under that heading.

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This Franciscan Gothic church has a 'simple' and modest appearance but it is really exquisite. It is a living museum. Originally establish as a monastery for a Franciscan Order, today it is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin. It is an extant Catholic church with religious service and worshippers inside. 

I feel honoured to have been able to visit it and witnessed one of the great Titian masterpieces as it was intended; an altarpiece. One can arrive by gondola; and roll back eight centuries to Medieval and Renaissance art, the beautiful sculptures, stained glass windows, great paintings, and of course its architecture. You can walk through and marvel at the design of its central nave.

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Architecture


Facing the plaza and a small canal, it's Gothic exterior may be plain to a modern taste, but is interior is special.


Entrance

Imposing interior structure.

You can make out the Titian masterpiece through the rood screen arch.

Worshippers

Adorned ceiling, Christ-like and different animals (incl. an eagle)

The only still-in-place rood screen in Venice.

Not sure if this is a tomb or entrance slab.

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Paintings

Presentation of Jesus Christ at the Temple by Giuseppe Porta

The upper-half of the canvas feels Romano-Greek: high priest holding the sacrificial Christ Child in veiled hands. Virgin Mary watches on. 

The subject's grandeur and architectural adornments framing it create a beautiful altarpiece. Must have been breathtaking in its day - and a response to the counter-reformation.

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The Miracle of St Joseph of Cupertino by Giuseppe Nogari

I love the sculpture in front - how fitting. Moments like this remind me how much of Christianity was shaped by the Roman-pagan culture.

Beautiful Rococo. St Cupertino soaring up to the heavens with outstretched arms .. near a dove in front of a suspended cross.

This floating Franciscan monk has to be one of the most ridiculous miracles.

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Martyrdom of St Catherine of Alexandria by Jacopo Palma

I have seen St Catherine at least once before in another painting. She is moving character - no least because she is a female saint. Martyred for her faith in the 4th century in Alexandria. She has a central reverential position around in this mannerist chaos.

Plaque to St Catherine.

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Paintings by Mannerist Andrea Vicentino

The bronze serpent raised by Moses and the final judgement and the glory of paradise.

The glory of heaven

The Last Judgement.
The sirens, the fire, the darkness and horror. Powerful paintings.

Creation of the World
A Romano-Greek idealised beautiful man in slumber being lifted by God (?).
Two rabbits (symbol of procreation?) and a lion on the otherside (for balance?).

Visiting prisoners and burying the dead.
Amazing how he captures Christ's cadaverous colour and texture.
The background is a storm and fire, and people trading in the background oblivious.

Clothe the naked, shelter pilgrims and visit the sick.

Resurrected Christ on one-side, and vomiting on the other?
Not sure about it, could be a reference to the Black death.

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Renaissance paintings  by Bonifacio de' Pitati

Adoration of the Magi.
Arcadian setting, the pyramid structure, great 3D tromp l'oeil.

Visit of the Queen of Sheba to Solomon.
I really like the floor tiling. The interaction of the Queen and King is charming. Amazing painting.

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Vierge of Mercy by Ortolano Ferrarese

Painted on wood. Quite beautiful. 

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The Assumption of the Virgin by Titian    1516-1518

Titian's magnum opus.

Unfortunately, I have since found out that this was a replica. Very upset. Took 18 months of restoration. Apparently, there was a layer of dust. It was restored a month after we left. (Titian's Assumption of the Virgin and Monumental Stone Frame Restored)

I will comment when I see the original (hopefully soon).

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St Ambrose of the Milanes  by Marco Basaiti

Ambrose of Milan was esteemed as Saint Ambrose. Theologian and statesman, he was Bishop of Milan from 374--397.

Early Renaissance. Beautiful proportions, symmetry with that internal dimension. I love the green material on which Ambrose sits. Music and lutes, with a scholar reading.

Interesting blog here on this Saint.

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Sculptures

Monument to Prince Almerico d'Este of Modena (1666)

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Reliefs by Francesco Penso

Monument to Giuseppe Bottari

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The Crucifixion. 


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Monument to Doge Francesco Dandolo


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Sculpture of Death as part of Canova Tomb

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Triptych altarpieces

Madonna and Child with St Nicholas of Bari, Peter, Mark, and Benedict by Giovanni Bellini

This is just so beautiful, so extravagant and so well-crafted. Made to have a 3-dimensionality to the figures in the paintings. A lovely Mary & baby Christ in the alcove.

I imagine it would have made an impact with parishioners. 

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St. John the Baptist by Donatello


I really love the little details about St John the Baptist: a bit gaunt, hand raised as it to say something, mouth slightly ajar. In lovely golden cape.

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Monument to Titian

Just wow! 

Artists were revered! 

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Monument to Paolo Pisanello


1 comment:

  1. What an amazing place. I must visit Venice again, soon.

    ReplyDelete